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THIS
HIKE WAS SUBMITTED BY PHIL BESKE |
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Photos
Map
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Photo by Phil Beske
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Last Updated:
July 16, 2007 |
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Webmasters Note: it is
extremely important to read the Caines
Head Hike as a supplement to this hike for information on getting
to this trailhead and other parts of this recreation area. Since you can
only hike the beach trail at low tide, this entire area can only be done
as an overnighter (unless you hire a boat to pick you up). |
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Difficulty
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I give this hike a somewhat
difficult rating due to the elevation gain. The trail is never extremely
steep but is a constant 3 mile uphill climb up to about 2,000 ft.
*****
The following is an
update by Turner Vail to the below information by Garrett (the
webmaster advises all hikers to use caution and contact the Ranger
Station for up to date information):
Just an update, as of July 9th 2007 Caines Head Trail is passable. The
second bridge is out but all you have to do is follow the river edge to
the bay. There it becomes braided and instead of crossing one major
river, you just cross 3 small creeks. My advice is to head off an extra
1/2 hour early, that is 2 1/2 hours before the low tide. Then just kick
of your shoes, cross the river and use the extra 1/2 hour to warm up
with a beach fire on the other side of the river. Check the pictures for
a visual inspection of what you have to cross. Do not use the trees to
cross; very precarious. Go have fun.
Photos by Turner Vail
The
following
important information was emailed to me by Garret Spargo:
Hey -
I am a fan of your site. I mainly use it to show my friends in the
States what it is that I do up here in our lovely summer months. I
just thought that, should you be actively maintaining the site, you may
want to add an update to the Caines Head trail section. This
link to the DNS website says the following about the Caines Head Trail,
which was severely damaged in the flooding last fall:
"11/2/2006 - Flooding in Seward during the month of October 2006
damaged and destroyed sections of the hiking trail that leads to Caines
Head State Recreation Area. Between the Lowell Point trailhead and the
south fork of Tonsina Creek there is extensive damage to the trail from
heavy rain and flooding. Numerous drainages flooded during high water
flows and eroded sections of trail. Fine gravel material on the trail
tread has also washed away. In addition, there were also minor
landslides that destroyed sections of trail and deposited debris on
other sections of trail. Damage extends over approximately 50% of the
1.5 miles of trail, between the Lowell Point trailhead and the south
fork of Tonsina Creek.
The Tonsina Creek south fork foot bridge was also damaged and the trail
that leads to Caines Head State Recreation Area is impassable at this
point. Approximately 40' of the 140' trail bridge has been destroyed and
support pilings damaged from high water and debris flowing downstream.
Due to the extensive trail damage, Alaska State Parks does not recommend
hikers use the trail between Lowell Point and the south fork of Tonsina
Creek. The public use cabins at Thumb Cove State Marine Park, Derby
Cove, and Callisto Canyon remain open and available for renting and
access to these cabins is recommended by boat or water taxi. The recent
storms also blew down a number of spruce and hemlock trees near the
Callisto Canyon Public Use Cabin.
For more information please contact the Kenai/Prince William Sound Area
Office at (907) 262-5581."
On 6.25.2007 I spoke with my brother, who works for DNS, and he said
that the trail is passable (although more difficult than before) up
until the Tonsina bridge, which is still severely damaged. I was
going to make the hike over the weekend, however, I will settle for Reed
Lakes instead.
Have a good one.
Garret Spargo
***** |
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Connects
With
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Caines
Head |
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Miles
One Way
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7 miles (4 miles to trailhead
using beach trail from Lowell Point) |
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Miles
from
Anchorage
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120 (Just below the town of
Seward) |
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General
Vicinity
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Caines Head State
Recreation Area |
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Season
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June through September |
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Description
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Let me first say that in my
opinion the Alpine Trail is the most under-rated and under-used hike in
the peninsula. I spent the entire summer volunteering as trail crew out
at Caines Head and this was by far the
best kept secret. I also had the opportunity to backpack throughout the
peninsula on my time off and would best compare this hike to Lost
Lake.
To reach the Alpine trailhead from North
Beach, head .25 miles back towards Derby Cove. A small sign and a kiosk
mark the starting point.
The trail soon thereafter starts the slow climb up to the alpine
area. It weaves throughout the gorgeous forest crossing numerous streams
and a large waterfall. Panoramic views of Resurrection Bay and its
gorgeous mountains begin at about mile 1.5.
After ascending a series of switchbacks and weaving through the waning
forest, the hike breaks through the treeline into the alpine area. From
here, un-limited views await as your jaw drops at the beauty of the scenery
below. Excellent views of Callisto Canyon, Callisto Peak, Thumb Cove
(Spruce and Porcupine Glaciers), Caines Head, and the numerous islands
that dot the entrance to the bay and the Northern Pacific beyond.
The trail then follows a series of rock cairns weaving past the
alpine ponds and streams up to the base of Callisto Peak. For the truly
adventurous, it is possible to ascend the valley to the south (left) of
Callisto Peak and view stunning Bear Glacier below as it spurs off of
the Harding Icefield into
Ailak Bay. No trail is marked up the mountain, but it is unnecessary as
it is fairly gradual and well above the treeline. The hard work is definitely
rewarded.
On another note, as of August 2004, I cleared a new trail linking South
Beach and the Alpine trail. If heading up on the Alpine, watch for
signs pointing south (left) towards South
Beach after about 1.25 miles. The trails weaves through some really
cool sections of forest, past/across numerous creek chasms and
waterfalls, and ends up at the south end of South Beach. The trail is
easy and is about 1.5 miles from the junction down to South
Beach. If starting at South Beach,
head towards Rocky Point and look for a bright orange trail
"T". Soon thereafter another sign indicates direction and
distance. The trail is nice as it creates a loop around the park, so as
everything doesn't have to be a straight out and back hike.
The following was added by the webmaster on June
28, 2005:
This past weekend I finally got to do this hike. I got into North
Beach late Friday night. After a lazy, dawdling Saturday morning,
I put together a daypack and head up this trail.
Phil does not lie! If he hadn't given this 5 Moose Hooves, I would
have bumped it up. This is a great trail! If I had to choose
between the fort and this trail, there would be no contest. Even
the forest, canopy part is beautiful as well as very peaceful and
relaxing. As the views open up, there are fields of lupine.
However, the top is sooooo cool! The views really are incredible and
360° to boot. While up there I saw eagles and hummingbirds
up close. You could spend hours up there checking out all the
cliffs and ridges, with different views and terrain. In fact, I
plan on coming back in August and backpacking up there so I can spend
more time to explore. I'm guessing that since the tarns up there
are so shallow, they would be warm enough to swim that late in the
season.
Listen to Phil and me and PUT THIS ON THIS LIST! |
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Important
Information
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Since Caines
Head is a fairly popular destination for backpackers (especially North
Beach), if one wants true solitude, I would highly recommend the
alpine. Water sources are abundant as there are countless streams and
ponds. Flat mossy areas for tent sites are also infinite. However, as
one is camping above the treeline, they must realize they will be
extremely exposed to any incoming weather, so pack accordingly. I have
set up camp on a cloudless night up there, only to wake up in the
morning in the middle of a rain cloud with limited visibility.
Speaking of which, I wouldn't recommend this hike on a day with low
cloud cover, as the views will all be obscured. The Fort
or South Beach would be a better hike when
low-cloud cover is around. And if one is planning on hiking up to the Fort,
DO IT FIRST! If hiked later, it will be extremely
anti-climatic as one stares down at the Fort
1,000 ft below when on top of the alpine.
Bear safety must also be a
priority when up in the alpine area, as it is not rare to see 3 or 4
bears. All have acted appropriately when encountered, but be aware and
practice strict bear safety.
Snow remains in the alpine area until mid-June, and the trail can be
hard to follow when snow cover is deep. |
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Etc.
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I have spent the entire summer
out at Caines Head and have learned of
some gorgeous/secret nooks and crannies, grottos, waterfalls, and scenic
lookouts throughout the park. One such point includes a small board that
serves the purpose of a bridge over a 200 vertical ft. crack/chasm in
order to access a scenic cliff side lookout known as the "Dog's
tooth." Not recommended for those with even the slightest fear of
heights, but I secretly marked the path and will let you know where to
look for it if interested. Simply shoot me an e-mail at beskph01@luther.edu
and title the subject line "Caines Head?".
Webmasters Note: A big shout out to Phil for, one, informing
me of these trails. I was actually getting kind of bored with
Caines Head since I had done it so many times. I was unaware these
trails even existed. I can't wait to check them out myself.
An even bigger shout out to Phil for doing this volunteer work.
Alaska owes a big load of thanks to these young people who come from all
over the country (including Alaska) to do this grueling work.
Phil sent me the below note when he sent the photo above:
"I also cleared a new trail system out in the Yakataga State Game Refuge
120 miles east of Cordova. the area is gorgeous as it is dominated by
the Bering Glacier (biggest in North America) and Lake Vitus which it
calves into. Unfortunately the plane flight is spendy and the brown
bears are thick! On the upside, the scenery is amazing. Two new
public use cabins were built in 2002 through grant money and we went out
and cleared trails (8 miles) connecting them, an airstrip, the Bering
Glacier, Midtimber Lake, and the gulf coast." |
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