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THIS
HIKE WAS SUBMITTED BY KEITH WEINHOLD |
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Photos
Map
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Photo by Keith Weinhold
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Last Updated:
January 21, 2007 |
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Difficulty
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Difficult - Significant vertical elevation gain, fairly
remote, some route finding skill. |
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Connects
With
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Eagle and
Symphony Lakes
Flute Glacier |
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Miles
One
Way
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10 |
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Miles
from
Anchorage
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About 25; on
the outskirts of the town of Eagle River. |
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General
Vicinity
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Chugach State Park |
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Season
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July to September |
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Description
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The namesake peak of the Eagle River Valley,
jagged and imposing Eagle Peak penetrates nearly 7,000' above sea level
into the Chugach sky. On a day with good visibility, few summits
can take you higher and provide a more rewarding challenge without the
need for climbing equipment so close to Anchorage. At the summit,
you won't believe where your own two feet have taken you as you look far below
at Eagle and Symphony Lakes - nearly a vertical mile below!
Only for those that are highly fit, one can climb 6,909' Eagle Peak in a
day trip from Anchorage, sleeping in their own bed the night before and
night after. Most will want to take two days, making camp in
the largely untrodden upper valley of the South Fork of Eagle River.
In either case, the route is replete with lung-busting uphills and
butt-busting downhills, and more twists and turns than the plot of
"The Empire Strikes Back". With cooperative weather,
summitting this Chugach Range peak can be a transcendent
experience.
From Anchorage, take the Glenn Highway to the Eagle River Loop / Hiland
Road exit. Make two rights to head east onto Hiland Rd. From
eastbound Hiland, turn right onto South Creek Road, right onto West
River Drive. Park in the dirt parking lot.
Hike the well-worn trail paralleling the South Fork of the Eagle River
five miles to the bushy isthmus of land cleaving Eagle and Symphony
Lakes. Here, gazing up the valley above Eagle Lake you will make
your first sight of Eagle Peak. Upon ogling the sharp summit
reminiscent of the Paramount Pictures logo, my hiking partner Allen
& I literally laughed out loud in now understanding the formidable
challenge before us.
Follow the thinning path between the lakes to the head of Eagle Lake,
and descend slightly to the glacier-braided stream feeding the lake.
Continue upstream, hopping across braids at times. At
last check, some orange flagging adorned the alders here, suggesting an
efficient route. After 3 upstream miles, you will climb and bushwhack
to the left of a tall waterfall. You will soon feel partly
"walled in" from 6,400' Cantata Peak on the right, and big
brother Eagle Peak ahead, and to the left.
A mile or so after the waterfall, Flute Glacier, perhaps the closest
glacier to Anchorage in a straight line distance, will come into view.
The toe of the glacier is a pleasing rest stop and the
end of the road for inexperienced hikers.
To approach the summit, you will want to backtrack from the glacier's
snout a few hundred yards, and gain the slope to the east which
eventually flattens into a high cirque. Stop at the cirque for a few
minutes and listen to the falling rocks regularly tumbling down the
south face of Eagle Peak. You are about to ascend into a world of
rock. Climb a scree-lined field leading to the base of a gully on
the south face. A trickle of a stream spills down the steep rock.
The first rock scramble to begin the ascent in earnest is a good
test, as the higher climbing gets no more difficult, just as a popular
book attests.
A series of gullies, talus, and scree lead to the summit. There is
no clear trail - just keep in mind not to stray too far to the left or
right, continuing up. If you don't have a GPS, you can gauge your
vertical progress by looking to the summit of neighboring Cantata, 500'
shorter than Eagle Peak. You may need to use your hands in some
places. Expect small route finding mistakes.
A popular book states that the gully splits near the top and that you
are to take the right fork. This confused us during our hike and we
found success bearing slightly left high in the gully. As you
approach the summit, look for a notch in the summit ridge. Aim for
the notch. Once gained, it will be obvious to head to the right to
gain the summit proper!
From this high summit, you can take in the great magnitude of the Eagle
River Valley and it's tributaries. Look south onto the twin rivers
of ice known as Organ and Flute Glaciers; and jagged, craggy neighbors
Organ Mountain and Cantata Peak. Eagle and Symphony Lakes will
appear tiny - about one vertical mile below your feet! Looking far
to the east, the breadth of countless snowy, glacier-clad peaks and
numerous white and blue glaciers lend perspective on how the local
civilization only indents one corner of vast, remote, and wonderful
Chugach State Park.
On August 15, 2004, Allen and I were only the 9th and 10th persons to
sign the summit register - stashed tightly in a summit cairn - for the
year. You will find two pleasant surprises when you descend:
numerous routes become visible that weren't so clear on the ascent, and
the safest route among them may be chosen; and scree becomes your friend
as it cushions you and eases your body on the descent.
This "walk-up" was my most pleasing Chugach summit ascent
- besting Bold Peak. To those whom are up to the challenge and
with the right weather, Eagle Peak can likely be your greatest day
in the Chugach. |
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Important
Information
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In wet weather, do not attempt to ascend the
peak as wet rocks make scrambling sections precarious. If you
attempt to climb Eagle Peak in one day, a headlamp is recommended, but
may not be needed. Whether attempting Eagle Peak in one day or
two, you must be fit, relatively experienced, have a few ounces of
indefatigability, and be willing to do some route finding.
Webmaster's Note: Keith emailed me the following a few days
later:
For your pleasure I included two brief video clip attachments of our
Eagle Peak descent on August 15, 2004. As we all know, photography never
does the slope angle justice - here you can observe how far the scree
slides!
Video 1 Video
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Etc.
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Mini-binoculars might help you spot Dall Sheep on Cantata Peak and
elsewhere, clinging to precipitously steep slopes. As sacrilegious
as it sounds, "scratchy" cell phone reception exists at the
Eagle Peak summit...and as jaw-dropping as the summit views are, you may
want to phone someone! |
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