I probably would have rated this hike much
higher had it not rained non-stop. I kid you not. It literally rained
(cold rain) for over 20 hours straight. I did not even get to see the
tops of the mountains (I hiked it in September)!
The first part of the hike is very easy (flat, wide trail), then after a
couple of miles or so it goes up pretty steeply (there are switchbacks).
Next you have "the boulder scramble". It
is a filled with healthy sized boulders that you have to navigate.
Not too hard, but not recommended for dogs or kids. Then, after a brief
period of flatness, it climbs once more and you see Lower Reed Lake for
the first time. There are more campsites here than Upper Reed Lake, but
if you're feeling motivated, it's worth the climb.
There are lots of crazy marmots running around!
*****
Dan F. (AKTrailhead)
emailed me the
following :
"Hey Bill. Hiked Reed Lakes with some friends about a week ago.
Quite a nice trail, you ought to try it sometime if you haven't already.
I thought I'd mention that while whomever posted the trail before said
it was all year, the best season would likely be July through
September. We hiked there June 19th, and while it was doable and
completely worthwhile, there were still a few spots here and there on
the last mile that involved crossing patches of snow (and a bit of post
holing). Not much, but it might give readers a rough estimate on
when the trail can be expected to be snow-free".
*****
*****
The following is a contribution by Frank
Baker regarding Bomber Glacier:
Just a note about Bomber Glacier, which
is just over the ridge from Upper Reed Lake. If you've come this far,
why not go a little farther to see the remains of a B-29 US Air Force
bomber that crashed in 1957? It's about two more miles, about 2,000
vertical climb, through the small low gap in the ridge directly above
Upper Reed Lake. Scramble up the gullies toward that low point and
you'll crest out, only about 30 feet above the glacier, that ramps
gently down to where the bomber lies. Earlier in the summer there is
snow on the glacier and walking is safe.
Otherwise, if it's icy, crampons will be
required.
I've been there three times and never
needed crampons. I've done this trip in one day but an overnight at
Upper Reed, especially if weather is nice, would make the trip really
enjoyable. There is a beautiful MCA
hut at the bottom of the valley. We overnighted there, took Royale
Glacier up and over to Mint Glacier Hut,
and back out.
Webmaster's Note: Go here to for
a Traverse over this glacier starting from Mint Valley.
Etc:
this is a story I wrote for my weekly
Anchorage radio program, Conversation Continued (Thurs., 5:30 p.m., KLEF
98.1 FM):
Conversation Continued 14 – Sept. 14,
2000
Heroism High in the Talkeetnas
Good evening. Here’s a compelling story
from yesteryear about bravery and heroism high in the Talkeetna
Mountains, near Hatcher's Pass.
On November 15, 1957, about 6:30 p.m., a
B-29 bomber from Elmendorf Air Force Base with a crew of 10 was
returning to base after a radar-calibrating mission farther north.
Weather had deteriorated and the ceiling had dropped to below 4,000 feet
as they made their way south past Talkeetna.
A routine radio report from the aircraft reported no problems. The plane
was scheduled to arrive at Elmendorf at 7 p.m.
Staff Sergeant Calvin Campbell, then 34,
was assigned to the right scanner position, about mid-point in the
aircraft behind the engines. One of his tasks was to monitor the two
engines on the right side. Staff Sergeant Robert McMurray had similar
duties on the left side. In the pilot seat was Major Robert Butler.
In a recent telephone interview Campbell,
now 77, described what happened next
“We were descending toward Elmendorf at
good speed, when we hit real hard with no warning. Everything went black…I
mean real black. Then we hit again and it felt so cold. It felt like the
wings tore off and when I crawled out, I saw that the fuselage was
broken into two. We were on a snowy field—I didn’t know at the time
it was a glacier. It was so quiet.
“McMurray was right below me, pinned
between the fuselage and the observation post. I pulled him out of
there. Navigator Lt. Claire Johnson had dragged himself out of the plane
and collapsed in the snow nearby. I wrapped them both in parachutes and
put Johnson in a sleeping bag that I found in the cargo hold.
“I could hear Sgt. Garza, the flight
engineer, yelling from farther up the slope. He was still inside the
nose section. It had sheared off and gone up the hill about 500 feet.”
“When I got up to Garza I soon realized
he was the only other survivor—it was just the four of us. The pilot,
Major Robert A. Butler and the five other officers had all perished.
Garza weighed about 140 lbs…it was hard pulling him out. I placed him
on a piece of canvas and dragged him down to the others. He had a broken
arm and broken leg. I went back to the cargo hold and got more sleeping
bags and then got us into the wreckage out of the wind—it felt very
cold, but I had extra flight clothing to help cover us up.”
Air Rescue at Elmendorf began its
helicopter search at daybreak the following morning, zeroing in on the
B-29’s last known position. By 9:30 they found the crash site—on a
broad glacial slope at fifty three hundred feet —about a mile
northeast of upper Reed Lake. Thanks to Campbell’s decisive actions,
the injured men survived the night. They were taken to the hospital at
Elmendorf.
“I think we were about 17 degrees off
course.” Campbell says. “Too far to the east—put us right into
those high mountains.”
Campbell said that except for a scratch
over his eye, he was unharmed. He later would suffer complications from
frostbitten feet, however, and lose the use of several toes.
Calvin K. Campbell received a special
commendation from President Dwight D. Eisenhower, the Soldier’s Medal,
a decoration for valor in a non-combat situation. He retired from the
Air Force in 1968.
“I didn’t feel like a hero or
anything,” says Campbell. “I just did what I had to do. “The other
guys would have done the same thing for me.”
Today, the broken bomber sits on the
glacier as a quiet memorial to the six men who died there 43 years ago.
I hiked there with a friend earlier this
summer—via upper Reed Lake trail and then over the pass. The wreckage
looked surreal, out of place. Here was 50 tons of torn and twisted
metal, once with wings stretching
about half the length of football field. The pride of the U.S. Air Force
in World War II now lay in ruins on a glacier, bent and buckled,
wrenched apart, scattered… exposed to the whims of nature.
We walked around the site awhile, took a
few photos, afraid to touch anything. Six men had died here. It was
unearthly quiet, as Calvin Campbell described it. A cool gust of wind
blew up from the valley below. I felt like it was telling us to move on.
After that visit I vowed to find out more
about the incident, and eventually located Calvin K. Campbell, who
though not in the best of health, was more than willing to talk about
the experience. My special thanks to Calvin and Elmendorf’s Historian
for help in researching this unique piece of Alaska history.
*****
*****
BLD Light Painting submitted the
following :
Difficulty:
Somewhat Difficult
Some rock scrambling and steep hill climbs.
Description:
I love this hiking trail. I have taken this route several times myself
and guided other people on our way to Bomber Glacier which is just over
the pass after upper Reed Lakes at the end of the official Reed Lakes
Trail. Watch out for slippery trail conditions when wet on the granite
rocks, clay soil parts as well. I took
my brother from Florida up this trail 3 years ago and he took a nasty
fall while descending a steep spot in the trail because of some wet
clay. Good camp sights at both lower and upper Reed Lakes. For Lower
Reed Lakes you'll want to pitch your tent on the south side of the Lake and
at upper Reed Lake, you can camp by the south side of its shore as well or on
one of two small hills south-east of the lakeshore, some 200-400 feet
away.
Warnings:
This is not your "teach grandma about trekking" kinda hike, but
that said, most anyone in reasonably good physical shape should be just
fine. Even my out of shape flat-land brother from Florida made it to the
4,500 foot mark past Upper Reed Lakes. I've walked up the trail to Upper
Reed Lakes and back in 4 hours but a much more enjoyable time for most
people would be more like 6-8 hours or even stay overnight. Just above
Lower Reed Lakes you will find a series of beautiful waterfalls, so if
you're a photographer like me don't forget the tripod for some wonderful
timed exposures.
Etc:
If you don't want to drive to the trail head ( a very rough road ) you
can park at the entrance to Archangel road, pay $5.00 and walk about 1
1/2 miles.
*****
The following photo and
accompanying email was submitted by Greg
Here's
one looking down on the Reed Lake Trail; the section between the initial
zigzag climb and the boulder field (boulder field to the left, and so
north, side of the picture). I took it from the accessible ridge just to
the north of the Snowbird Mine by following the bench up from the old
mine power (or steam?) plant. I wanted an overhead of the Lower Reed
Lake but my legs are too old to go that high.I took this yesterday
(6/15/07).It's a shame the tram tower there between the first step and
the mine has finally fallen, It made a great picture at one time.
*****
*****
The following was submitted by
Randy (from Oregon):
A note on distance and difficulty: if you
add the Bomber to the hike it's about 1.75 more miles and 1300' in
elevation over bolders and scree. Then the first 20' down to the glacier
is a little steep.
We did this hike in one day. (Nine hours)
About 15 miles round trip and 3300' elevation change. The weather was
nice so the trail was dry (until the glacier). Once you reach the crest
of the ridge to the Bomber the wreckage is still a little over a half a
mile over the snow. Our main goal was the Bomber, but the trail to the
lakes and the water falls were beautiful. Everything in Alaska is so big
it just puts me in awe.
Take gloves for the rocks and the climb
back to the top of the ridge through the snow, and gaiters would keep
your feet dry also.
The long./lat. for the Bomber are:
(61*51.515N)
(149*07.188W)
I hope this helps.
*****
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